




Paul Bellamy wrote:There is not a mix-up with numbers, AAF Olive Drab for aircraft was a different shade to US Army Olive Drab used for vehicles.
However there is an additional FS number allocated that many suppliers use as a substitute standard: FS 34088.
Using the wartime ANA 613 specification number gives a variety of model paint numbers:
XtraColor: 112 Olive Drab ANA 613
Testors Model Master Enamel: 2050 Olive Drab ANA 613
Testors Model Master Acrylic: 4842 Olive Drab ANA 613
Pactra: 5906 Olive Drab ANA 613
Polly Scale: 505080 Olive Drab ANA 613
The Humbrol, Tamiya and Revell "olive drab" paints are the US Army FS 34087 shade.
The underside AF 41 Neutral Grey appears to have been given an approximate ANA number, ANA 43.
Currently, only White Ensign paints produce this exact shade, color AC US 13.
All the best,
Paul
EDanaII wrote:OK, quick post, because it's tired and I'm getting late.
First, here's the links to the two other "build" threads on the Forum:
The Return of the Hard Seventeen.
B17G-35-VE 42-97869 Hula Girl / Maid to Order.
These two builds are different from yours since they are both Aluminum finished, but you may still find them useful.
I also found this forum useful: ARC Air Forums.
Now, some quick tips: you'll need patients (lots of patients) but you probably already new that. You won't have the problem I had with metalizer since you're doing an olive drab plane, but my first B-17 was the Memphis Belle, and I, personally found it difficult to paint the camouflage properly. For precision work, I used a special masking tape for models and a rubberized mask as well. The masking tape allowed for straight line work, like the tail, the rubberized mask allowed me to mask and protect tiny details, such as window frames. Get yourself a magnifier of some sort, preferably one you can wear, and don't forget tools like tweezers, clamps, exacto-knife, sandpaper, etc...
I pained the interiors of my models, but it's not really 100% necessary as much of the detail his hidden when the model is put together. I painted the tail stripe but used decals for the triangle, squadron codes and serial numbers. For the details unique to my plane, I order custom decal paper that allowed me to create what I need on the computer and then print them off.
Enough for now. Gotta get my sorry butte to bed.
Niterz...
EDanaII wrote:OK, quick post, because it's tired and I'm getting late.
First, here's the links to the two other "build" threads on the Forum:
The Return of the Hard Seventeen.
B17G-35-VE 42-97869 Hula Girl / Maid to Order.
These two builds are different from yours since they are both Aluminum finished, but you may still find them useful.
I also found this forum useful: ARC Air Forums.
Now, some quick tips: you'll need patients (lots of patients) but you probably already new that. You won't have the problem I had with metalizer since you're doing an olive drab plane, but my first B-17 was the Memphis Belle, and I, personally found it difficult to paint the camouflage properly. For precision work, I used a special masking tape for models and a rubberized mask as well. The masking tape allowed for straight line work, like the tail, the rubberized mask allowed me to mask and protect tiny details, such as window frames. Get yourself a magnifier of some sort, preferably one you can wear, and don't forget tools like tweezers, clamps, exacto-knife, sandpaper, etc...
I pained the interiors of my models, but it's not really 100% necessary as much of the detail his hidden when the model is put together. I painted the tail stripe but used decals for the triangle, squadron codes and serial numbers. For the details unique to my plane, I order custom decal paper that allowed me to create what I need on the computer and then print them off.
Enough for now. Gotta get my sorry butte to bed.
Niterz...

Phoenix wrote:Mary A,
If you ever get to read the book 'Flying Fortress - Claims to Fame' chapter somethingorother on the 'Mary Alice' the narrative from one crew member describes her as "a sorry old state patched up in a mixture of olive and natural metal panels everywhere" (battle damage repair)so if you don't get the right shade of paint, you got some poetic license
![]()
Tally Ho
Dale
MaryAlice wrote:Zinc Chromate
Black
Silver
Grey
Gun Metal
Olive Drab
Brown
Dark Green
Light Grey
Flat Aluminum
Chromate green
White
Red
Yellow
Dull Silver
Aluminum
Brass
EDanaII wrote:MaryAlice wrote:Zinc Chromate
Black
Silver
Grey
Gun Metal
Olive Drab
Brown
Dark Green
Light Grey
Flat Aluminum
Chromate green
White
Red
Yellow
Dull Silver
Aluminum
Brass
Zinc Chromate and Chromate Green are the same colors. Otherwise, the colors stated are how they should appear rather than an exact color. For example, Silver and Aluminum look much alike and, in fact, I used an "aircraft silver" to paint my aluminum plane, so things like "dull silver" distinguish the appearance of the color. Many of the colors listed are only needed for the interior, so it's a matter of how much detail you want to place in the interior.
But Paul knows better about these things, so best to listen to him.
Ed.

Paul Bellamy wrote:Ok, here we go.......
Bear in mind I'm referring to the original Monogram instruction booklet here, the current one may vary.
In the main, the colours shown on the instructions are complete fantasy. I'll go through each section in the booklet and say what colour things should be as accurately as I can, whilt trying to keep the number of different paints to a minimum.![]()
Zinc Chromate: Ignore this, it's very rarely used, and for the small areas needed can be mixed from interior green and yellow.
Black: Get a good MATT black paint.
Silver: Again, get a good silver, you'll be using it as a base for other colours too.
Grey: Use the underside grey, you'll also be using this to mix with other colours later.
Gun Metal: A standard paint colour, make sure you mix it well or it will dry in an unpleasant way.
Olive Drab: ANA 613. If all else fails you can mix this shade using US Army OD, and a couple of other colours. I'll have to look the rations up.
Brown: A matt mid-brown will be fine.
Dark Green: This will be used for parts of the interior, hence Interior Green. It's a mid-dark matt bottle green.
Light Grey: Underside grey plus a drop of white.
Flat Aluminum: Silver plus a drop of white.
Chromate green: Interior green plus a drop of white.
White: MATT white.
Red: Signal Red, matt if you can get it.
Yellow: MATT yellow.
Dull Silver: Silver with a drop of black
Aluminum: See Flat Aluminium above.
Brass:
First you have to decide on your interior colours.
The nose, flight deck and radio room compartments were all Interior Green.
The bomb bay, waist section and catwalk under the flight deck could be Interior Green, bare metal (silver) or a combination of the two.
I'd recommend Interior Green for the catwalk, and bare metal for the waist/tail section. You can pick out the vertical ribs in Interior Green in the waist/tail section, ignore the bomb bay as it will be invisible unless you cut open the doors.
1: Tailwheel Assy.
Bulkhead (#20) and wheel strut (#41-41) Interior Green or silver.
Wheel hub, Olive Drab. Use the same ANA 613 OD as for the outside.
Tyre: Black with a touch of white mixed in.
2: Ball turret assy. Ignore this step until much later.
3: Radio Room assembly.
Floor and tabletop are plywood. Use Brown, when dry can be "grained" with brown+white mix if required.
Ball turret support frame (#210) Interior Green, cut off and discard the "brass shells" bit. Oxygen bottle (#202) is Yellow.
Seat #56, cut off the "headrest" and file smooth. Use the back cushion as a guide, you need an even gap around the edge.
The seat cushion is Olive Drab, the back cushion is Yellow. Belts should be painted off-white (White + a tiny amount of brown)
Fwd bulkhead (#18): Interior Green, radio boxes on right of door Aluminium with Interior Green supports. Fire extinguisher Red with Black nozzle and hose. Ignore the flasks and cup dispenser alongside, just paint Interior Green.
Aft bulkhead (#19):
Front wall Interior Green, Olive Drab hand cranks. All radio boxes Black with grey details (dataplates, handles, etc.) Include the ones lower right that are labelled as flat aluminium in the booklet.
Back wall silver with Interior Green frames (ignore the "zinc chromate" panel, paint this silver). The two items of radio gear are black.
I'll continue this later. It might be simpler if I scan the booklet in and amend the directions.![]()
All the best,
Paul

Jackie (Sharp) Sheflin wrote:Have you guys seen this picture before?
http://www.centennialofflight.gov/essay/Air_Power/B-17_29/AP28G4.htm
Jackie

Paul Bellamy wrote:Putting "USAAF Neutral Grey 43" through the Paint Conversion Chart I found at http://www.paint4models.com/paintchart/ ... 0101.html# gives the following alternatives:
White Ensign: AC US 13, USAAF Neutral Grey 43
Polly Scale: 505382, US Gunship Grey
Quartermaster: 43, Neutral Grey
Revell: 32174, Gunship Grey
Humbrol: 123, Extra Dark Sea Grey
US: ANA 603, Sea Grey
Pactra: 5908, FAA Extra Dark Sea Grey
Testors: 1723, Gunship Grey
xtraColor: 5, RAF Extra Dark Sea Grey and 130, Gunship Grey
Hope that helps,
Paul

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